How to Frame Cross Stitch

Prepare the stitching

Trim loose ends on the back. Wash in cool water with mild detergent if the fabric is marked, rinse well, roll in a towel to remove water and dry flat. Press face down on a thick towel so the stitches stay raised, and let it dry completely before mounting.

Method 1: Lace over mount board

Cut acid-free mount board or foam board to the frame opening. Center the stitching face up, fold the edges to the back and lace them together with strong thread: first across the width, then down the length, tightening as you go. Lacing holds fabric straight for decades and can be undone.

Method 2: Pin over foam board

Cut foam board to the frame size. Center the stitching, push pins into the board edge at the middle of each side, then work outward, pulling the fabric taut and checking the grid lines stay straight. Fold the corners neatly and tape the excess on the back.

Method 3: Finish in a hoop

Place the piece in a clean hoop, trim to about 1 inch outside the ring, gather the edge in behind the inner ring and cover the back with felt. It is the quickest display method and suits small, round designs.

Method 4: Self-adhesive mounting board

Peel the backing and press the fabric on from the center outward. It is fast and flat, but hard to reposition and not reversible, so it is better for gifts than for heirloom work.

Method 5: Professional framing

A framer who handles needlework will lace the piece, use acid-free materials, and add spacers and UV-filtering glass. It is worth it for large or valuable pieces. Ask that no glue or dry mounting touches the fabric.

Choosing a frame size

Without a mat, pick a frame opening about 1 inch larger than the design so a little plain fabric shows on each side. The table gives the largest 14-count design for common frame sizes and the fabric to cut for lacing.

For other counts, convert the design size with the Aida cloth calculator. Box frames add depth, which keeps glass clear of raised stitches and beads.